Style Counsel

ON Friday night the fabulous, the flamboyant, and the fashionable descended on Glasgow's Kelvingrove Gallery for the Scottish Style Awards.

The event took place to recognise those Scots from the worlds of fashion, music, hospitality and retail who have most inspired us this year.

Among those strutting their stylish selves up the red carpet were Shirley Manson, Pam Hogg and Lauren Laverne.

But just what is style? Turner Prize-winning artist and Scottish Style Awards judge Douglas Gordon tells Fiona MacGregor his style secrets.

WHAT DOES STYLE MEAN TO YOU?

I suppose at my age it'll be something in between that desperate striving for individuality that you have at a certain age and being comfortable in your own skin – as comfortable as a baby, or an old person. You get very stylish old people and my daughter and my son when they were born both had a certain sense of style.

SO YOU THINK STYLE IS SOMETHING INNATE RATHER THAN SOMETHING WE ASSUME?

I think style is a lot do with pose and attitude and certainly both my kids have got that. My son's six and my daughter is three weeks old. They're born with an attitude, that's for sure, and style might be how they realise that attitude.

IN YOUR WORK YOU OFTEN TAKE SOMEONE ELSE'S WORK, WHICH COULD BE SEEN AS THEIR STYLE, THEN CHANGE THAT TO MAKE SOMETHING NEW WHICH IS VERY "YOU". WHAT IS BEHIND THAT?

I don't think there's much difference in terms of fine art and music and fashion when it comes down to that. Quoting is the height of flattery and the easiest way of showing allegiance, affiliation and influence.

I first left Scotland when I was 16 and went down to London en route to Paris. I stopped off on the Kings Road and saw Vivienne Westwood's' stuff for the first time. So although I was probably dressed in an Arran jumper and a pair of wellies, I had an idea of where it might lead me.

HOW HAS YOUR OWN STYLE CHANGED OVER THE YEARS?

I'm constantly in disguise, constantly trying to find a new disguise. I had three big events last week and one was a big opening at the Guggenheim to honour all the artists in this exhibition, and for that I was fully bearded. Then I shaved the beard for the Scottish Style Awards and kept what (Richard] Jobson, when I gave him his prize, said was my "Freddie Mercury" moustache. And the other big event was coming home to see my daughter, for which I shaved the moustache off.

SO FROM WHOM ARE YOU DISGUISING YOURSELF?

Everybody.

FOR A LOT OF PEOPLE, STYLE WOULD BE AN EXPRESSION RATHER THAN A DISGUISE.

I grew up with a pretty firm diet of spy movies and B-movies and I was always pretty obsessed with this idea that you could be lurking in the shadows and have an unseen influence on people. The artist isn't as known as the work, which isn't always the case in the music world and certainly not in modelling. I like this idea you could be like Harry Lime in The Third Man, who you don't really see till the end.

DO YOU THINK THERE'S A SPECIFIC SCOTTISH STYLE?

It's funny. When I started to travel abroad I always liked to come home, because I couldn't handle the crazy things the French would wear or the uptightness of the Germans, but I think it's changed a lot now with travel being a lot more fluid. I don't know if there's anything like a specific Scottish style for people on the street.


But I certainly think people like Stella Tennant, Kirsty Hume and Derek Walker and others are pursing something which will give Scotland an individual style. Stella has definitely given it a look and Honor Fraser and all these people have given Scotland a branded look on a level that nobody could do before.

SO IT'S SOMETHING IN ITS INFANCY JUST NOW?

I think so – I hope so. It just means there's a long way to go. I do remember going down Byres Road in the 1970s and there was a very long-haired, combat-jacketed, patchouli-oil kind of thing going on. Then during the 1980s it was floppy caps, long coats, a lot of the stuff to do with Postcard Records. Actually, the Postcard Records style – Edwyn Collins and Aztec Camera and Simple Minds, around that time – I remember that as being the first big statement of Scottish popular style. But that's a long time ago.

IS THERE ANYONE WHOSE STYLE YOU PARTICULARY ADMIRE, OR WHO HAS BEEN A SPECIAL INFLUENCE ON YOU?

On a very classic level, Agnès B, although that's very high street now. Something like that, very street, European, preppy kind of thing – I used to be able to get into clubs wearing Agnès B. Apart from that, other stuff like old skin-head stuff, Crombie. If you went into my wardrobe that's probably what you'd find – Crombie, Agnès B, Adidas and Vivienne Westwood.

HAVE YOU GOT A FAVOURITE OUTFIT?

The skin I feel most comfortable in is a vintage Harley Davidson biker jacket with a three-colour Crombie tweed over the top and a pair of Prada jeans. And I've got these beautiful yellow snakeskin shoes which nobody who has ever seen them has forgotten. I didn't have them on on Friday because I was only giving out the awards. If I win one then I'll wear them.

AND FASHION MISTAKES?

Let's just say they're on a daily basis. I'm actually looking at these big pair of red wing biker boots, which I spent a fortune on and I couldn't wear them more than once. I went dancing in them and they nearly tore my ligaments. That's a pair of disasters staring me in the face.

IS STYLE ALWAYS VISUAL OR CAN IT BE SOMETHING LESS OBVIOUS?

Food is great style. Up until very recently I was writing a column for French Playboy which I think was quite stylish and I did it really for my visiting card. It was very cool, if a Glasgow taxi-driver said to me, "What do you do, son?" rather than talk about what kind of art I do, I'd just say, "I'm a food critic for Playboy magazine". I thought that had a certain style.

MOST STYLISH FEMALE: SHIRLEY MANSON

IS IT WRONG to be particularly pleased that Shirley Manson walked away with this one? It's not because she's from Edinburgh (she grew up in Stockbridge), nor is it because it's just so good to have a "most stylish" who is over 40 (she's 42), nor is it the fact that she's triumphed over adversity (bullied in her teenage years, she self-harmed and struggled with her body image) to become a global star. Nope, what makes this most pleasing of all is that Manson is undeniably, genuinely stylish.

Maybe it was her training as a sales assistant in Miss Selfridge in the 1980s, but glance through photographs from what is now a 25-year career as rock star (Goodbye Mr McKenzie, Angelfish, Garbage and with a solo album due next year) and now actor (she plays a psychopathic cyborg in the Terminator TV series) and you'll see bleached crops and androgynous suits as well as rock-chick grunge-light ensembles and Stella McCartney evening gowns. Not every look has worked but that only makes it better – she's fallible, human, not the creation of a celebrity stylist clone. Idiosyncratic and unique – that's what style is all about. Shirley, we salute you.

MOST STYLISH MUSICIAN: SHARLEEN SPITERI

THE last time we saw Spiteri in the flesh it was backstage at T in the Park – she was high-tailing it across a muddy field, shouting cheek at Ricky Wilson (the Kaiser Chiefs frontman) and eating a bag of crisps. Funny. Given that she was wearing vertiginous heels, a post-box red shift dress and matching tights it was even funnier.

Spiteri, performing solo and newly single in life too, had just done a blinding three-song set showcasing her reinvention, both musical and stylistic. Always high fashion, Spiteri once stood out as one of the few women pop stars following an androgynous, urban chic aesthetic.

But that's all gone and what's replaced it is something more grown-up, more womanly, with nods to the past (the muzzed up 1960s beehive hairdo) and a perfect tie-in with her musical style.

OTHER NOMINEES: Bobby Gillespie, Calvin Harris, Howie B, Izo Fitzroy

TASTEMAKER OF THE YEAR: LUCY YEOMANS

IN THE world of high fashion publications there are three names that stand out: Vogue, Elle and Harper's Bazaar. That Harper's makes that exclusive list is no small thanks to Lucy Yeomans, the magazine's editor. Yeomans is the woman who remade Harper's as a style aficionado's must-read.

She's also the woman who once threw a party at Claridge's for David Bailey at which Kate Moss ended up lying on top of a piano that was being played by Ronnie Wood.

Regarded as one of the most influential and well-connected women in publishing, she grew up close to Loch Lomond and studied art history at St Andrews University. Chair of the British Fashion Council Press Committee and named Editors' Editor at the 2007 British Society of Magazine Editors Awards, Yeomans is no stranger to plaudits and more than deserves her title as Tastemaker.

OTHER NOMINEES: Jim Lambie, Mhairi Gibb, Michael Clark, Nichola Joss, Paul Nesbitt

MOST STYLISH MALE: RICHARD JOBSON

MAKING his first television appearance on Top of the Pops wearing knee-high tan leather boots and a Star Trek-style top was perhaps an inauspicious beginning for Jobson in the style stakes, but then it was 1978 and he was the frontman of post-punk band the Skids.

In more recent times, Jobson's style has been marked out by sharp tailoring and classic lines. There aren't many men who can get away with a three-piece suit, but Jobson is one of them. Tweeds, cashmere, refined tailoring – Jobson often opts for a classic and, no matter whether he says he never looks in the mirror, it's obvious that it takes more than luck to make his look.

OTHER NOMINEES: David Byrne, Johnny Crichton-Stuart 7th Marquess of Bute, Dougie Payne, Dougray Scott

HIGH-STREET RETAILER: MONSOON

IT'S a high-street institution popular with ladies of a certain age looking for a sort of Boden- with-sequins aesthetic. However, Monsoon has enjoyed something of a makeover in recent seasons. Statement pieces have enjoyed "it" status, making regular appearances in some of the most chic fashion magazines, yet this retailer has remained true to its ethical roots.

Founded in the 1970s, it set the trend for sustainable style long before fashionistas started wearing Edun and carrying jute bags. It focuses on initiatives to improves the lives of garment workers and combat poverty, and recently set up the Monsoon Art Collection, an initiate that supports new artists whose work references indigenous cultures and globalisation.

Perfect for yummy mummies not yet ready to succumb to the elasticated waistband.

OTHER NOMINEES: Topshop, H&M, River Island, Schuh

RESTAURANT: THE GLASSHOUSE @ ESKMILLS

HOUSED in a former mill, The Glasshouse manages to combine traditional rustic architecture with a striking glass extension by Cubit Design. Friendly and local yet undeniably stylish, the expanses of glass mean you get panoramic views across a floodlit piazza. This doesn't mean they've eschewed intimacy, though, as the tables are cosy with subtle lighting.

Food is locally-grown and seasonal, focusing on Scottish favourites with a modern twist. Chef and owner Steve Adair – who has worked in some of Scotland's top restaurants, from The Witchery to Prestonfield House – forgoes fine dining in favour of high-quality ingredients and reasonably-priced, simple food, a formula that's proved a success with the restaurant's extensive list of trendy regulars who love the restaurant's no-nonsense approach.

Perfect for gazing into one another's eyes over hearty grub.

OTHER NOMINEES: The Dogs, Edinburgh; Lido, Troon; The Kitchin, Leith; La Vallee Blanche, Glasgow

FASHION DESIGNER OF THE YEAR: DERYCK WALKER

THIS menswear designer has been waiting for his big break for a while, but is finally established on the London fashion scene. He branched out into womenswear last year, applying the same quirky minimalism as to his popular menswear line. Think neutral shades with splashes of pastels, bold lines and eccentric detailing. He has worked with Boudicca and Robert Cary-Williams and spent time at Versace in Milan before returning to London to go it alone. His designs are available in the super-hip Dover Street Market in London and have been featured in style bibles such as Pop, Arena and Vogue. He is currently working on collaborations with Harris Tweed, Holland & Sherry and Calzeat, and after a few years spent struggling to make a name for himself, he seems to be enjoying his time in the limelight; he danced up to the podium to collect his award on Friday and was quick to thank his very stylish mother.

OTHER NOMINEES: Aimee McWilliams, Jamie Bruskie Petsill, Christopher Kane, Graeme Armour, Vidler & Nixon; Yong Hei Fong

OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTION: JOHNSTONS of ELGIN

SIMPLE luxury: that's the story behind Johnstons of Elgin – not so much a fashion family, as a fashion dynasty. Established in 1797, the company is celebrating 211 years of continuous manufacturing of luxury tweeds and cashmere in the north of Scotland and remains at the forefront of the world's luxury markets. At once traditional and cutting edge, the company's designers (12 in Elgin and five in Hawick) create a new look each year. Using only the finest cashmere – sourced from Mongolia – and a wealth of Scottish
talent and natural resources (the waters of the River Lossie are credited with giving Johnstons' cloth the glow it's famous for) the company has used its long and proud history to secure a position at the forefront of the future of Scottish design.

ENTERTAINMENT VENUE: VOODOO ROOMS

WHEN the Voodoo Rooms opened at the end of 2007 it's no exaggeration to say style-conscious Edinburghers thought all of fantasies had come true. Here at last was the venue where you could drink stylish drinks surrounded by stylish people while being entertained by some deliciously louche cabaret or cutting-edge music. Idiosyncratic, stylish and utterly original, this three-bar, five-room venue combines restored original features with contemporary style.

Perfect for stylish music lovers who don't want to follow the crowd.

OTHER NOMINEES: Byblos, Glasgow; Cabaret Voltaire, Edinburgh; Snafu, Aberdeen; The Winchester Club, Glasgow; Opal Lounge, Edinburgh

BAR: BLACK SPARROW, GLASGOW

THE sister operation to the hugely popular Chinaski's in Glasgow's Charing Cross, Black Sparrow opened earlier this year, but already has fans twittering about its huge leather booths, open fire and intimate atmosphere. Named after the company that published Charles Bukowski's barfly novels, the moody space is decked out with red leather details, bold artwork and Victorian chandeliers. Food is a modern take on traditional pub grub while tipples are dark and traditional – think bourbons, rare tequilas and exotic rums.

Perfect for doing dark deeds in even darker corners.

OTHER NOMINEES: The Balmoral Bar, Edinburgh; Mama San, Glasgow; Hamiltons Bar, Edinburgh; Mim, Aberdeen

BOUTIQUE: CHE CAMILLE, GLASGOW

THE epitome of New York chic, Camille Lorigo brought her inimitable sense of style to Glasgow in 2006 after time spent studying and working in France, Poland, Belgium and England. Her boutique, Che Camille, showcases fashion, accessories, art and even furniture, mainly by breakthrough Scottish designers. Still searching for that holy grail of fashion, the perfect pair of jeans? There's a bespoke denim service by Rabii.

Quirky is the name of the game here, and there's a distinct Glasgow feel to many of the pieces – think jewellery stamped with images of graffiti taken from around the city, or graphic prints featuring images of the (recently departed) run-down tower blocks by artist Lee Black. For those who love seeking out new Scottish design talent, this trendy space houses everything you're looking for under one roof, and at prices that won't bring tears to your eyes.

The boutique is located in Glasgow's Saltmarket, but is soon to decamp to an enormous studio space above the city's chic Princes Square shopping centre. Watch this space…

Perfect for fashionistas on a budget who like to look beyond the high street.

OTHER NOMINEES: Boudiche, Edinburgh and Glasgow; Cruise Aberdeen, DollyLeo Apothecary, Edinburgh; Goodlife, Glasgow

HOTEL: CAMERON HOUSE, LOCH LOMOND

FORGET eye-watering Royal Stewart plaid and grim oil paintings of bored-looking stags, Cameron House in Loch Lomond is modern Scotland at its most tasteful – natural colour schemes and big log fires. It's recently-revamped rooms are ideal for those seeking cosy luxury or self-indulgent pleasures in the roof-top hot tub overlooking the loch.

Forget other young pretenders, this five-star hotel – popular with celebrities from Kylie Minogue to Robbie Williams – has been one of Scotland's top luxury destinations for years thanks to the combination of its stunning location on the edge of Loch Lomond, its impeccable service and acclaimed fine dining restaurant, Lomond's.

Perfect for snuggling up to your loved one on a romantic getaway.

OTHER NOMINEES: Saint Judes, Glasgow; Pool House Hotel, Poolewe, Ross-shire; Kinnettles, Dundee; The Rutland, Edinburgh