Luskentyre is unbelievable. Broad golden-white sands, a turquoise blue sea – and the mountains of Taransay (Castaway island) rising out of the water. It was a bit chilly but the kids held hands and ran into the water again and again. Even in early Ju
ly, it was almost deserted in the late afternoon. Horgabost is close by and though smaller and less dramatic, it has a glorious little bay, great for swimming and building sandcastles – and would be a good base to camp for a couple of days. We saw a magnificent sunset close by.
2 HUISNIS, HARRIS Turn left soon after leaving Tarbert, heading north, and wind round a single-track road for 15 miles. It gets tiring (for a driver) but stick with it as the broad sandy bay at the end is impossibly beautiful – great for kite-flying, swimming, sandcastle-building and whatever you fancy. Lovely views to the smaller islands – and the road goes under an arch that forms part of Amhuinnsuidhe Castle, built in 1864-7 for the 7th Earl of Dunmore.
3 CRAIGSTON, BARRAHead north-west on the "main" road out of Castlebay, look for the sign to Craigston and park in the unpromising lay-by on the left. Go through the fence and scramble along the dunes beside the lochan. A big sandy beach then opens up with great views. Good for all the usual beach-related fun – but the real surprise is the towering waves that smash on to the sand. It wasn't all that warm when we were there but the kids didn't care and all got soaked.
4 TOLSTA, LEWIS Go north-east from Stornoway, but no further than Lord Leverhulme's Bridge To Nowhere (which goes, erm, nowhere). Go down the steep road to the beach car park. You are in a natural bay, which is fabulous for kite-flying, playing games, sandcastle-building and body-boarding – and you can walk out of the bay towards the sea and along the gorgeous stretch that is Traigh Mhor (big sandy beach). I am reliably informed by local experts that there are more great beaches around the other side of Tolsta Head, with a waterfall known locally as Giant's Wee Wees. Unfortunately, we planned to go but awoke to rain and gloom and had to move on.
5 ARDGOIL, LEWIS Party of the big glorious sweep that is Traigh Uuige. Great place to stop as you can walk across the sands at low tide to the heritage centre and museum (see page V) – and the statue of the Lewis Chessman (the chessmen were found in these parts) is also nearby.
The full article contains 448 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
