AN EGG without salt is like a man without a moustache," said my mum, as she reached for the shaker in Osso – a bright little bistro in Peebles. Considering my dad is clean-shaven, this doesn't bode well for their marriage, but it's true that an egg a
lways benefits from a little bit of seasoning. Although we'd heard that the evening menu at this place is amazing, my mum, sister and I had visited for a light Sunday lunch – making sure to book in advance, as it always seems to be heaving with locals and shoppers at the weekend.
We had decided to share a starter, which is where the aforementioned egg comes in – it was perfectly poached and perched on top of a hearty, yet mildly spiced, square of homemade black pudding (£5.95). "Last time I was here, I was envious of a friend who ordered this," said mum, as she demolished the tower of breakfast-style treats, which also featured a strip of crispy bacon.
As junior and I gazed on, empty stomachs rumbling and not getting much of a look-in, we sipped our respective glasses of Bundaberg ginger beer (£1.95), and ginger and lemongrass presse (£1.80) – while deciding what to have for our mains. The selection of tapas on the menu (which featured 17 mini temptations; including battered prawns with chilli and garlic, crispy halloumi, manchego cheese and Bayonne ham) seemed like a good bet, so we opted for the platter for two people (£16), which, according to the waitress, offered a taste of each. "Wow," we thought, like a pair of greedy piglets.
Therefore, when our main course arrived we were rather disappointed, as in our opinion we were presented with the dullest choices – ie: flatbread, dips, chicken wings, average olives and falafels. I have to admit that the falafels were well made, with plenty of bright green herbs running through a chick-pea mixture. I also enjoyed the baba ganoush, which was lemony and heavy with aubergine; and a pot of black pudding and chorizo in tomato sauce was rich and tangy. However, once we'd finished these gems, the leftovers were pushed around our ginormous plate (note to self: next time you're at Osso, go for the "three tapas for £7.50" option, rather than the generic platter).
Thankfully, my mum had fared better than us when it came to her main course. Because she's addicted to fish, as well as being a creature of habit, she'd chosen baked smoked haddock (£8.25), a dish she'd eaten here previously. She was delivered a hefty helping of white fish, which was cooked like a rarebit – with a blanket of browned cheddar and a sprinkling of Worcestershire sauce over the top of the fillet. This looked delicious, and attention to detail was evident in the pile of sautéed potatoes underneath, as well as the grilled tomato on the side, which had been drizzled with olive oil and chopped basil. To wash this pescetarian delight down her gullet, she sipped a large glass of Los Tres Curos (£4.25 for 250ml) – a fresh, Chilean sauvignon blanc, it went perfectly with the fish.
After this huge portion, mum was faltering – until I pointed out the sticky toffee pudding with homemade vanilla ice-cream (£4.25) on the menu, which she's always been a sucker for. Junior had her eye on the bread and butter pudding with milk sorbet (£3.95) and I was keen on the chocolate cappuccino (£3.95). Well, I was, until the waitress returned five minutes after taking my order, leant over like a harbinger of doom, and warned: "Your pudding is going to look very odd, but it was your choice."
So, I was relieved when my sweet arrived looking very appealing – in a white coffee cup, with a dusting of chocolate over the top. It tasted lovely, too; the glossy, cocoa-heavy mousse was rich, a layer of whipped cream was aptly naughty, and the almond biscotti on the side wasn't too brittle and tasted homemade. I think mum quite liked her choice too, as there was a lengthy pause in her babble of hot gossip. In order to get some feedback, I had to sneak a taste and I can report that the sponge was malty but light, with a treacly syrup over the top. Unfortunately, the younger Soutar sister was less impressed with her option, "This is cold in the middle, and the milk sorbet is just vanilla ice-cream with a different name," she said.
Lunch at this restaurant may be hit-and-miss, but I've heard through the grapevine that dinner is fab and, according to mum: "They do a very good cheese scone in the morning." For that reason, I wouldn't rule out revisiting this place. I wouldn't ever say that Osso and I go together like an egg and salt. Maybe, as facial hair is less popular these days, we're a bit more like a man and his moustache.
